Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Review: Carillon Brewing Company, Dayton Ohio's Newest (and Oldest) Micro Brewery

By Kathleen Hanover

Dayton, Ohio is seeing an explosion of micro-breweries and distilleries. But the most notable may be the only "new" brewery in the country that was built at a history museum: the Carillon Brewing Company at Carillon Historical Park.

The massive fireplace that powers the Carillon Brewery.
Though it opened in August, 2014, "new" is in quotation marks because the Brewery was built from scratch over the past year—to 1850s specifications. It is operated the same way: using handmade tools, wooden barrels and labor-intensive beer making techniques. All of the staff are outfitted in historical costumes—from the servers to the brewsters—giving you a glimpse into Dayton's past. (Yes, "brewsters" are a thing.)

Brewmaster Tonya Brock told WDTN news, “What we are doing as far has history goes is replicating as much of Dayton’s 1850’s brewing process. Everything from the implements we’re using to the beer that we’re making and the interpretation of the foods were serving. We’re trying to replicate some of the architecture you would have found in 1850’s brewery or factory. The large tempers were hand hued by the construction team here on our site. You’ll see and hear fires. Fires to keep you warm to fires to heat up our brewing kettles.”

Entering the brewery from the front, you walk past a semi-circle of handmade barrels that separate the hearth and working part of the brewery from the downstairs dining area and bar. The top of each barrel sports a plaque that explains a stage of the brewing process, allowing you to learn your way from one side of the room to the other. There are baskets of hops flowers and grains you can handle, and there's always a brewster nearby to answer any questions you have.

The building's 1850's architecture is as authentic as modern building codes will allow, with massive post-and-beam construction supporting a soaring two-story brick shell. The huge fireplace that is the heart of the brewery takes up the entire north wall of the building.

Did I mention the Carillon Brewing Company is also a lovely place to dine out? With a nod to the waves of German immigrants that settled in Ohio in the mid-nineteenth century, the menu features an array of Germanic dishes including sausages, German potato salad, red cabbage (all delicious, especially the Mettwurst) and other hearty fare. The bier cheese soup is both tangy and creamy, with a hint of bacon. The pretzel braid appetizer comes with grainy mustard and a fabulous beer cheese spread. Several more dishes have been added since the restaurant's soft open in August, including more modern selections such as cheeseburgers and fries.

When I visited in August, Ms. Brock told me that the Brewery would eventually offer a selection of handcrafted alcoholic and non-alcoholic brews, including ales, lagers, root beer and ginger ale. In mid-November, 2014, the brewsters starting making their first four in-house brews (see below).

The Carillon Brewing Company's root beer is on tap.
During my second visit in early November, none of the house-made brews were finished, though several barrels of in-process Coriander Ale were visible near the brewery's massive, multi-opening fireplace. So instead I sampled the Carillon Brewing Company's ginger ale. It is spectacularly superior to anything that comes in a two-liter bottle at the grocery. First, it's not cloyingly sweet. It's a beautiful pale yellow, not the chemically-enhanced amber you find in store-bought versions. The ginger taste predominates at first, but again, it's more subtle, light and refreshing than I'm used to. As the first floraly notes of ginger mellow, you start to get the aley finish notes. (Yes, it actually tastes like a very mild ale with ginger flavor. Imagine!) On my next trip to the Carillon Brewing Company, I'll leave with a growler full of Ginger Ale from the well-stocked gift shop.

As of December, 2014, here's what's brewing at the Carillon Brewing Company:
Beers
Coriander Ale — A mild pale ale with an even balance of malt and hops with a subtle touch of coriander and hot pepper to cure what ails you.
Table Ale — This old standard was served in houses and taverns alike. Simply malt, water, hops and yeast. A good drink to serve to all. Not too hoppy, not too malty.
Devonshire White Ale — Looking to cure colic or gravel? This ale should do the trick (or at least that is what was thought in the past). This hop-less ale must be consumed quickly after fermentation. Get a pint before it’s too late.
Porter — After a long day of moving barrels, making deliveries and carrying other’s goods, you are sure to be famished. The heartiness of this porter will fill you up while quenching your thirst. Made of a mix of pale, yellow and brown malt, this drink is made of what a working man can afford.
The Carillon Brewing Company is a must-see for anyone who enjoys handcrafted beer, history or even just an excellent meal in unique and fascinating surroundings. Though they can't enjoy the alcoholic offerings, older children will probably enjoy the ginger ale and root beer, and learning how it's all made.

The Carillon Brewing Company is open Monday through Saturday 9:30 a.m. -10:00 p.m. and Sunday from 11:00 a.m. -10:00 p.m. Food service begins at 11:00 am daily. The Carillon Brewing Co. is part of Carillon Historical Park, 1000 Carillon Blvd., Dayton, Ohio 45409. There is no admission fee to tour the Brewery, but admission is required to visit the rest of the park's attractions. Food, beverages and souvenirs are available for purchase. For more information, visit the Carillon Brewing Company online or call (937) 910-0722.

About the Author
Kathleen Hanover is a marketing copywriter, freelance journalist and public relations consultant who enjoys helping startup companies find their voice--then find their audience. Connect with Kathleen on LinkedIn or visit her online.

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